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December 2024
|How would you describe this occupation?
Gemologists are specialists in identifying and evaluating diamonds, colored stones, and pearls. We use expertise and special tools to determine quality; assess any treatments, such as applying heat to enhance color; or distinguish synthetics from naturals, all of which ultimately play into determining value. We build trust with the public because we're able to clearly communicate what you're looking at and what the gemstone is.
Some gemologists focus on jewelry design and repair, while others specialize in evaluating stones for appraisal or authentication. A gemologist could be somebody appraising a jewelry piece for sale, or sourcing gemstones for design, or doing quality control. You could even be an entrepreneur and start your own business, or be a store manager. Wholesale, design, retail—you name it, and a gemologist can work in it.
Tell me a little about the process of assessing gemstones.
The process of grading and assessing a gemstone involves methodical steps and an understanding of the gem’s unique qualities. Grading a cut diamond, for example, follows a structured approach focusing on the “four C’s”: color, clarity, cut, and carat weight.
But assessing other gemstones may be more complex. For loose gemstones, you evaluate them based on their highest quality potential for that particular variety, which depends on the gemstone’s origin and current market value. When gemstones are part of a piece of jewelry, other elements—such as brand, craftsmanship, and overall condition—also influence the assessment.
What other tasks does a gemologist’s work involve?
Handling sales and operations involves managing prospective retail accounts, checking in with current accounts, and looking at the inventory for quality issues and to proactively restock for the next season. Some days could involve coordinating exhibitions for trade shows, which are held several times a year to enhance brand recognition and to attract clients.
You also need some form of recordkeeping, which could be a specific program for jewelry or gemstone management but is usually just a spreadsheet for data entry and inventory tracking. There also might be customer service duties, like answering and sending emails.
Why are people drawn to this occupation?
From the conversations I've had, there's always something along the lines of “My grandma had beautiful pieces,” or “I used to collect rocks as a kid,” or “I love gemstones, and I have no idea what I'm looking at and want to learn.”
I think there's a unique passion that people have for gemstones, jewelry, or even geology that draws them to gemology. There's just this curiosity about how these natural treasures form in the earth and transform into beautiful, polished pieces.
What was your path to becoming a gemologist?
I have a background in fine arts and struggled to envision a stable, successful career that could support me. After graduating from high school, I kind of stumbled upon gemology. I came at it from a design perspective because I found the courses in jewelry design, bench (artisan) jewelry, and gemology science fascinating. I thought, “Oh, this is so interesting! There's an entire world in jewelry.”
That's how I got into it. I wanted to be able to buy stones, design pieces, and speak with authority about my craft, because I couldn’t imagine being a professional and saying, “I don't know what that is.”
Could you elaborate on that—the importance of specialized training for gemologists?
We work with really valuable stones and jewelry and are entrusted to determine their worth or create a design around them, so we need to have expertise. There are several different institutes in the United States that offer a gemologist designation, and most of them require a high school diploma for entry.
What are some skills or qualities gemologists need to be successful?
You should be detail oriented and have excellent organizational skills. You also need to be able to take constructive criticism well and be open to change. And in sales, it helps to enjoy connecting with people or to get a rush from hitting those sales targets.
You also need to be able to clearly communicate, especially in writing. Often, gemologists have to create a legal document declaring what an item is, and the description has to be precise to identify it.
Successful gemologists stay genuinely curious about the field and love learning new things. The industry is constantly evolving with new technologies and treatments, so you have to stay informed and adapt to them. The things that hit the market change all the time, and being able to stay up to date with all those changes is vital.
What do you like best about your job?
What I love most about my job is the opportunity to learn new things and build strong network connections. I'm a curious person by nature, and I love continuing to learn; that feeds me and keeps me on my toes. Sometimes this industry seems like a vast ocean, even though it's a small community, and I see all these wonderful things that come from nurturing connections.
What are some challenges?
Managing expectations is one of the most challenging parts of the job, whether it's about sales, operations, or anything else. For example, jewelry and gemstones can’t always be restored to their original state. Educating the client about what a jewelry piece is or what gemstones can withstand, especially within budget or timeline constraints, is a big part of what we do. We have to make sure clients understand the limits, and also the possibilities, of what we can do.
What advice do you have for an aspiring worker in gemology?
I touched on this already, but staying curious and being open to learning continuously. There are a lot of people who didn't know that the jewelry industry or gemology even existed, and then they go to a school, get their credentials, and learn under the wing of professionals and instructors. You can create a beautiful career in this industry.
Elsbeth Hamilton, "Gemologist," Career Outlook, U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, December 2024.